Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Giverny and Rouen. Day 1.

The sun is shining and all is well. What is it they say about too much of a good thing?... Oh yes, too much of a good thing can be wonderful! :-)
Last Sunday morning Christian took me to the railway station at 7.00am as there were no buses running that early. Very kind of him. When I got to Paris Montparnasse I had to get the Metro to Gare St Lazare. Fortunately I had worked out beforehand that Line 13 would take me right there so it wasn't too difficult. (That's not entirely true. I did get a bit lost when I got to St Lazare as the Grande Ligne trains are in a different station altogether - one has to emerge up into the light!) And on I went to the Vernon Station from where I got a very packed shuttle bus to Giverny. I walked along the road and found my B&B - Le Clos Fleuri - which is about as close to idyllic as you could get I think. Beautiful spacious room, beautiful grounds and garden.... magnifique!
My room, and the view from my room.

Recommended to me by my good friend and Blog commenter of reknown, Hilary. Word of mouth is the best recommendation of course. And Danielle, Madame Fouche, is Australian! Well, she was born in France but went to Australia when she was 18 months old and didn't leave again till she was 30. So yes! In fact she was amazingly kind and generous and made my stay extra special. I imagine she makes everyone feel like that. I was pretty tired as my sleeping is not happening all that well at the moment. I thought I might just blob that afternoon and visit Monet's garden the next day. However, Danielle and Claude checked out the weather forecast and urged me to go then and there as the next day was likely to be wet. In fact Danielle popped me in her car and drove me the very short distance along Rue Claude Monet and showed me where everything was. I had lunch at a restaurant with a wonderful ambience but ordinary food and then I set off for the garden. Now, you should holiday with me you know. I am a good luck charm! Lol. I am very good on queues. You cannot pre-purchase tickets and the queue stretched back for what looked like at least 2 hours to me. The start of the queue.

And it was extremely hot and very, very humid. But!! Danielle gave me a ticket she had been given - a "special invitation" ticket. So, not only free admission, but NO WAIT AT ALL!!! How amazing and lucky was that??
Well, I guess that many of you have been to Monet's garden at Giverny. For me, it was one of the highlights of my time here so far. (Right up there with meeting men in toilets.) I just loved it. It just kind of overwhelms the senses. The roses had been knocked about by some rain a day or two beforehand but were still pretty lovely on the whole. And everything else was... well, I will run out of superlatives. And the little lake with the waterlilies....

In fact, I just sat down on a seat for a about 20 minutes and reflected quietly and soaked it all in. Beautiful beautiful. And suprisingly calm and tranquil, despite the trillions of tourists. I kept finding myself in the middle of a Japanese tour group, and every time I hung back or changed course, or whatever, I always seemed to end up back in their midst!
I had a wander though Monet's house, another wee look at the garden, and a jolly good look at the gift shop. Actually, being tired is quite a good buying filter - mostly I couldn't be bothered buying anything. I should always shop when tired!
I wandered back along the road and checked out a few galleries and an open air art display like the Queen's Gardens one in Nelson. And that was about that.
Back at the B&B I relaxed on a lounger on the lawn and chatted for a time to Karen, a woman from Norfolk who had come over for a few days with her family to celebrate her 60th. They all went off to organise tea, and then Danielle appeared with a bottle of wine and some nibbles, and she & I sat outside my room and got through it all whilst chewing the fat a fair bit! It was still really hot - just the most wonderful ambience. Amazing what wine can do to create a warm feeling!
And that pretty much covers day one. I didn't really have tea - having eaten a big lunch the nibbles were sufficient. And I am hoping to have lost a few kgs having missed a meal. Is that how it works? Lol.








I'll put more photos on Facebook - I tried to put more on here but the system got the pip with me. :-)

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Mes amis Guy et Christiane

I was going to call this post La Fiesta Landais. But in fact it is really about hanging out with friends. I know that I am going to drown in my own blithering sentiment, and no doubt take some of my regular readers down with me!! Hahaha. But I have to say again - the absolutely best things I have done here have involved spending time with 'the locals'. And to have made friends with some of them is such a bonus. I am really lucky.

So... this morning I watched the rugby till it was almost finished. I was disappointed, but not gutted. Gutted I save for World Cups. Sick as a Parrot was specifically for the 1995 World Cup final. I am still not quite over that. But I may be wandering off the track again! Lol!
Guy came to pick me up with Clara his little granddaughter. We drove to the village of Nieuil-l'Espoir which is just near his village of Nouaillé-Maupertuis. Guy's son Stephane lives in Nieuil-l'Espoir. (Espoir means hope - don't know about the first bit.) Anyway, there was a fair on, so we wandered around and had a look at a few things and I got introduced to heaps of people.
Guy is very particular about including me which is really thoughtful, but I sometimes feel like his little puppy! Lol! Nah, it's good really. Although I wonder what the villagers actually are thinking! We then went to Guy's house and had a leisurely and enjoyable long lunch with Guy, his lovely wife Christiane and her sister Martine who had arrived to pick cherries from the bountiful tree. The other son Julien arrived at one point also. They all live close to each other. I am quite envious! It was after 4.00pm by then. Guy and I went back to the fair for what was the big drawcard. Now, we all have our traditions, and if some seem less interesting or even less humane than others, well.... I guess it takes all sorts of things to make the world go round. Guy kept talking about the Cow Show. They weren't cows. Well, they had nothing at all dangling down so I guess they used to be bulls and then had their bits cut off. Ooh! That smarts! Anyway, there was a pen and two teams of people were taunting the animal and making it mad and then it would chase them and they would run and climb up a fence. Still with me? It had horns but they had caps on. Guy kept reassuring me that it wasn't dangerous. I wasn't worred about that. I just didn't like them teasing the animal.
But while I was watching I thought that in the grand scheme of things it wasn't a major. And the participants were mighty fit. And then I had another thought - it was just pretty much the same as playing Bullrush! Bring back Bullrush - that could be a way of letting young men release their pent up warrior needs!
Still, it was about as interesting for me as going to the Stockcars. But the crowd adored it. They sat there in the baking sun, with hardly a hat to be seen, and lapped up every minute. We met Stephane and his daughter there,
and what is that Louane is wearing on her head I wonder? Yes yes, a cap. But what does it say?
Another wander round and a few more people to chat to. Guy knows more people than I do. Then back to his place for a swim in the lovely pool. I imagine that as naturists they don't normally bother about togs, but in my honour Guy and Christiane wore some today! A bit of a singsong and then it was time for me to come back home again. Another great day. It's hard not to feel a bit sad at this stage of proceedings, knowing that I will be saying goodbye quite soon. Ah well, goodbyes are just like hellos, and they come and go and add to what we already have. Which makes us richer as people. My goodness, I think I might have to bring out a book of quotes! Actually, what I should bring out is a book of typos. My typing is sooo often just like "'Allo 'Allo". I think I moght have to brong out a book of quites. Back to the goodbye thing - Guy and Christiane said today we would just eat casually outside today as I was like part of the family now! Aaaw! And when their sons come I am part of the whole kissing thing which of course I rather like!
I'm off to Giverny tomorrow (Sunday) - back Tuesday night.

Friday, June 12, 2009

Last day at the Lycee.

Farewells are always a bit anti-climactic I reckon and I felt sure I wouldn't see any of the people I knew when I went to school for the last time today. However, I did see most of them, and they all seemed to appreciate the chocolates I took along, as well as the NZ DVDs and calendar. Mind you, no-one commented on the message I wrote in the card and I didn't have to courage to ask to have my mistakes pointed out!
I worked from 8.30 with Agnes and two of her classes, and then at 11.30 I finished off the final simulated interviews I have been doing with the senior students who are trying to get into a top Business School.
There are 7000 places available in all of France and 9000 applicants. I sincerely hope that all these kids make it - I doubt that I have ever met a nicer bunch. Highly intelligent, articulate... just generally all round nice kids. It's actually interesting how sparky, independent and thoughtful these kids are when you consider that most of their education has consisted of copying stuff from the board! Food for thought!! Lol.
I also ran into another group of kids - some of Claudine's class with whom I have worked for the whole year.
They called me over and we had a chat - it took me all my time not to become emotional! The photos are of 3 young women I 'interviewed' today, and the bunch of 'regulars' I mentioned. They all agreed to be published on my Blog. I'm so aware of privacy issues, and in fact should probably get bits of paper signed. But I'll just pretend I'm living in another, earlier period. :-) Most of the kids wore surfie shorts today, it being the last day and all. The power of text messaging eh? Someone thought of it, and lo and behold, almost the whole school turned up today dressed for the beach. Cool!
I went and gave back my keys and also went and saw the Principal. He seemed to remember who I was although I haven't seen him all year! I thanked him effusively and sincerely - it truly has been great. And in turn he kissed me effusively!
So that was that. I am now on holiday! I went to the university - also for the last time - and met Yun and Abir for lunch. After that Abir took Yun and I on a mystery bus trip to some very cheap shop about 20 minutes away. A bit cheap and tatty, but it was fun going somewhere different and hanging out with my young friends!
Tomorrow I will watch as much of the rugby - ABs v France - as I can in the morning chez M-H and Christian, then Guy is picking me up and I'm going to his place for lunch - with him and his wife of course! I think there is a village fete in the afternoon. And on Sunday I'm off to Giverny for a couple of days. And after high temperatures today and even higher predicted for tomorrow, the forecast from Sunday for several days is for rain all over the place. Rats! But c'est la vie! I guess Monet's plants like the rain anyway.
Oh, did I tell you that I have belatedly discovered a wonderful Oldies radio station here - Nostalgie? It's great - they play The Beatles all the time and Paul even has little messages from time to time!! Sigh!

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Angers

Today I went to Angers. Let me quote from Frommer's France 2008. (Kindly given to me by the Maguire family.)"Once the capital of Anjou, Angers straddles the Maine River at the western end of the Loire Valley. Though it suffered extensive damage in World War II, it has been restored, blending provincial charm with a suggestion of sophistication. The bustling regional centre is often used as a base for exploring the chateau district to the west. Young people, including some 30,000 college students, keep this vital city of 260,000 jumping until late at night." As Frommers is an American publication I guess the reference to college students means university students.
Anyway, Anna, another New Zealand teacher on the Ministry/AFS programme, is in Angers. As the crow flies it's not all that far from Poitiers, but travel there involves a train change. In fact, I only figured out how to get there a while ago. When I asked people here about getting to Angers they all muttered darkly, "Oh no, you can only go there by car." Which made it a bit tricky for moi! But anyway, finally today Anna and I caught up. It was a lovely day, if a trifle cold at the start! I was halfway to the bus stop this morning before I realised that despite the yellow thing in the sky there was a biting wind and I was cold! However, I survived, and it did warm up nicely as the day went on. To the point where I did in fact get a touch of sun on my face! (My face was flushed, but my broad shoulders saved me. Sorry, sorry!)


Our first stop was the Chateau d'Angers which dates from the 9th century. It's been a home to various kings, and Louis XIV turned it into a prison. In World War II the Nazis used it as a munitions depot, and the Allies bombed it in 1944. It's a really lovely castle - I'm a bit of an expert now, and I was most impressed, particularly with the wonderful ramparts.

The castle is also home to the Apocalypse Tapestries. Although the light in the room where they are housed was so dim - for obvious reasons - that I had trouble seeing them clearly. (The obvious need to protect the tapestries from the light didn't seem to have quite hit home to a couple of English speaking tourists who were wandering round flashing off photos left right and centre.)Anyway, the tapestries were woven around 1375 for Louis I of Anjou. They haven't always been highly regarded - they once served as a canopy to protect orange trees and were also used to cover the damaged walls of a church! I think it's just incredible that they still exist - and there are 77 of them, stretching for 100m!
Anyway, after the castle and bit of lunch, we went on the... yes Tiffany, we did.... we went on Le Petit Train! As well as writing a book about canal cruises, I think I could also write a book about Petit Trains.
It was a pleasant trundle round the streets of Angers, but there was quite a bit left out of the tour as Centre Ville is being all dug up to install tram lines.
After that we met Anna's boyfriend and an American friend of Anna's who also lives in Angers, and we had a beer! Very pleasant.
I think I say that quite a bit now - very pleasant! Lol. Then we 3 gals wandered round the shops for a bit - and Anna bought some trousers and a top - and after a coffee I said my goodbyes and hopped on the train.
It was a lovely day - a nice mixture of touristy stuff and just hanging out.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

OK then.....

Now I'm hearing that not only can people not comment, some people are getting messages saying that the blog doesn't exist and they can't get even get on board to read it. So..... Can you either a.Leave a comment if you can - one word will do - saying you are there and have read it or b. Send me an email saying you are able to get on the site. Again, one word will do if you like. I realise that if you can't get into the blog you won't be reading this, but I'll have to figue out a way to deal with that! Lol. There doesn't seem to be a Blog Captain, or HOD Blogging one can email with problems!
Thank you!
A couple of random photos. A street sign. I love the way they name so many streets after events or famous people. And a piccie of me with a couple of the lads at uni. (The Algerian War incidentally was not France's proudest moment.)
PS In fact there is a Blog Captain and I have done some fiddling round so we'll see if that makes any difference.



Monday, June 8, 2009

Des Personnes Locales

These are some of the people I see and/or talk to regularly. First of all, the young girl at the boulangerie.
I don't even know her name, but I can tell you that she is just great, really. She has always been totally accepting of my efforts at French and has been helpful and encouraging all along the way. She even tells some of the other customers about me. Now she is saying that it's time to say au revoir as she will be going on holiday while I'm away in July, and she won't be back before I leave. Like many people she is a bit baffled by me and where I'm from. She sometimes needs to ask again why I am here, and she had NEVER heard of New Zealand before and still thinks it's Australia. But I am quite taken with her. One of those 'salt of the earth' people; good with the customers and able to whip a tartelette au chocolat out of the cabinet as quick as a whisker. :-) Unusually, the boulangerie is open on a Sunday - well, till 12 anyway, but is closed Mondays. (A bit of an in-joke that Louise will get!)
Next is the man from the Tabac. I don't know his name either.
I mostly just buy my bus pass/tickets from him, with the ocasional bit of photocopying etc. Or he will just talk to me as I'm walking past. He loves to talk about New Zealand and the All Blacks and we have had several quite long conversations. He is also really encouraging about my spoken French. He is open 6 days a week, but closes from 1.00 till 3.15 every afternoon. It's funny really, but because Mademoiselle Boulangerie and M Tabac are so supportive, I feel quite relaxed when talking to them, and certainly speak better with them than with some others.
And finally we have Emilie, my hairdresser.
Those of you on Facebook may have already seen her photo. The gals at the Hairdressing Salon have been pretty scared of me I have to say. They scuttle off when I come in - it may be that I sprout horns on crossing the threshhold. (Does that have one h or two?) Emilie is a very nice young lady but is a bit wary of me too, and after a few stuttered conversations we usually settle down to a reasonably comfortable silence. Somehow I can never think of the right things to say. However! Recently, quite out of the blue, I got a request from her on Facebook asking to be my friend, and we have exchanged a few messages. So fancy that! It was no doubt to see the photo I had taken, but it was still out of left field and she obviously is starting to feel a lot more comfortable with this strange foreign woman who wants stripes in her hair! In fact I have got just one more appointment booked, and that will be my last visit. The hair salon is closed Mondays (and Sundays of course) and also closes for lunch most days.
Now I still have my epilation girls to talk about, but don't have photos yet, so they will have to have a chapter to themselves!
And they are my people tonight, as Paul Holmes might have said.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Les Escargots


Oh yes, the great snail adventure! Last year when I regularly got emails from my class they invariably asked, "Have you eaten snails yet Miss?" Well, I hadn't, but now I have. Marie-Hélène decided that she must rectify this sorry state of affairs, and fill a gap in my tapestry of life experiences. So last night I dined with the Martin family. (Interesting that Martin is about the most common name in France - a bit like Smith.) Xavier even turned up in his All Black jersey for the occasion!


And the verdict is..... well, I thought les escargots were delicious. It was more like a texture than a taste really, as the main flavour was the pesto that was with them. But whatever, I didn't give a thought to those fat squishy things that eat my hostas, I just chomped them up. Nice.